I received a huge poinsettia this holiday season. I would love to keep it alive. are there any pointers I need to know to keep a florist plant from dying?
Poinsettia care?
Strore bought ones last longer if you keep them cool but not cold. They like the soil low moisture but not dry - so watch for drainage. Muted light. Most that are very spectacular have been force fed to 'bloom' this way and once that bloom is over they go into a shock state and are almost impossible to keep alive. In the tropics they grow like bushes to huge sizes. They are a different deal all together than these specimen store ones.
Reply:well water it evary day thats all I know hope it serves you good
Reply:Don't let it dry to the point it is like a brick or water will not be absorbed again. Water throughly enough to let water come out the bottom. Sunny location not needed just some light. Watch out for little knats - ugh.
Reply:care for as you would any other house plant sunny location and water when soil is dry
Reply:DO NOT OVER WATER AND ONLY WATER WHEN DIRT IS DRY TO TOUCH THE WATER HAS TO BE WARM TAP WATER AND KEEP IT IN A WARM DRY PLACE
Reply:This first thing you need to do to keep a houseplant alive is learn something about it. Where does it come from? What is the temperature like there? How much water does it get naturally? These are the questions that will keep your plant healthy for a long time.
Poinsettias are from Mexico and the Caribbean. The temperature there is rather warm and it is humid. There is good drainage in the soil and there is lots of light. This is what you want to duplicate in your house.
1) Put it in a warm and sunny location
2) Keep it slightly moist, but never soggy
When the leaves start to fall, cut it back to about 1/2 to 1/3 its original size. It will look bare. Keep it watered slightly and it will start putting out new leaves. Soon you will have a pretty green plant.
Remember that the red is not blooms but is actually a form of the leaf. The blooms are those tiny yellow things in the middle of the red "brackets" (or leaves).
If you are lucky and keep the plant in good day light and very dark at night, you will probably get blooms a second year. If you live where it is warm in the winter, you can plant it in the yard and it may bloom more than once before next December.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Poinsettia care?
I have kept my poinsettia on topof my entertainment center through the holiday. Ipicked it up earler to water it and litterally all of the green leaves and many of the red bracts fell off. Is it saveable?? I would like to try and grow it, but is it worth it?
Poinsettia care?
If you overwater them or put them in a draft the leaves oftentimes will fall off. If you want to save it just put it in a location where there is no draft, where there is filtered sunlight, and water only when the top inch of soil is dry. And don't fertilize until it gets some new large leaves.
Reply:http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/...
It's alot of work but you can make it re bloom.
Poinsettia care?
If you overwater them or put them in a draft the leaves oftentimes will fall off. If you want to save it just put it in a location where there is no draft, where there is filtered sunlight, and water only when the top inch of soil is dry. And don't fertilize until it gets some new large leaves.
Reply:http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/...
It's alot of work but you can make it re bloom.
Is it necessary to cut the poinsettia back?
My poinsettia still has half of the petals and leaves from the holidays. The stalk is thick and green, very healthy looking. I just transplanted it over a week ago in a bigger pot and it's doing fine. I've read that I must cut it back, but I'm afraid to kill it. Any suggestions?
Is it necessary to cut the poinsettia back?
The rule of thumb I have always heard is that you prune them back once the blooms fade. If it is still in bloom I wouldn't pester it. Mine is still in bloom, too, and I haven't pruned it yet.
Once the blooms fade cut it back to about 2 inches above the soil line. I set mine out on the deck during the summer and it gets so gorgeous and full!! A friend actually plants hers in the garden. They grow into a small shrub but due to our climate, last only one season. I suppose you could dig them in the fall and keep them in the house over the winter and then re-plant them outside if you wanted.
Reply:You wont kill it..prune it back. I have a poinsettia from 5 years ago.
Reply:it will bloom better if you do ,
Is it necessary to cut the poinsettia back?
The rule of thumb I have always heard is that you prune them back once the blooms fade. If it is still in bloom I wouldn't pester it. Mine is still in bloom, too, and I haven't pruned it yet.
Once the blooms fade cut it back to about 2 inches above the soil line. I set mine out on the deck during the summer and it gets so gorgeous and full!! A friend actually plants hers in the garden. They grow into a small shrub but due to our climate, last only one season. I suppose you could dig them in the fall and keep them in the house over the winter and then re-plant them outside if you wanted.
Reply:You wont kill it..prune it back. I have a poinsettia from 5 years ago.
Reply:it will bloom better if you do ,
Poinsettia care?
I was given a poinsettia by my church. It's kind of wilted with some of its leaves/petals turning purple. Does anyone have any idea how to care for them? I don't know. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
Poinsettia care?
Do not over water, the biggest killer of houseplants. Keep away from direct sunlight in a cool spot. Feed with weak fertilizer fortnightly. If you plant is soggy, remove from pot and allow compost to dry, then re-pot in new compost
Reply:You should keep it in indirect sunlight for at least 6 hours per day. It should be kept at room temperature and try to keep it away from cold and hot drafts. Water it only when the soil feels dry, but do not let it sit in water. After the plant drains pore out the water underneath. If you have to move it to another room for proper temperature, feel free. Pointsettias are not as moody as many plants. In other words, they will not be stressed by moving them. Make sure you talk to it and give it lots of love and it should be okay.
Good luck!
Reply:I hate them. Get rid of it!
Reply:THIS INFO FOUND FROM A GOOGLE SEARCH, HOPE IT HELPS!:
To initiate short days the plant must be in complete
darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., which can be accomplished by placing the plant in a
dark closet or in a light-proof box. Any light that is received during the dark period
can delay flowering.
Light is still needed for growth, so the plant should be placed in a sunny location
from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Water as needed and fertilize every week according to the fertilizer
label until bract color develops. Once color is visible, it is not necessary to keep the
poinsettia in complete darkness during the night. At this time, the plant flowers with any
amount of daylight. Directions at a Glance Being able to to rebloom poinsettias for several
years is a great accomplishment. Use the following schedule as a reminder. May: Cut back
stems to 3–6 inches above the soil. Repot or separate if needed. Place in sunny window and
water when soil is dry to touch. (Root cuttings if desired.)
June: Move plant outside.
Water and fertilize more frequently as plant grows.
July 1: First pinch.
August 15: Second pinch. September 1: Bring plant indoors to sunny location at 65 to 75°F.
October: Initiate short days (for mid-December bloom date). Water as needed and fertilize
weekly according to label
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
THIS PART I FOUND FROM ANOTHER ASK YAHOO ANSWER, AND FOUND IT TO BE VERY HELPFUL AS WELL:
Poinsettias are hard to grow and its conditions for growth could only be afforded by
greenhouses. But you could still keep it alive.
The ideal location for a poinsettia plant is in front of a warm, sunny, draft-free south,
east, or west-facing window behind a veil of filtered sunlight. Poinsettias are tropical
plants, so take care not to place it against the glass where it can suffer damage from the
cold. Indoor temperatures should be maintained between 68'F and 70'F.
Turn the pot a quarter turn once a week to provide ample light to the entire plant for even growth and
uniformity.
The soil should be kept evenly moist but never saturated. Over watering could cause foliage
loss.
More information is available at:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/poinset...
GOOD LUCK! MY LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF SO FAST THAT I GOT PANICKY AND STARTING SEARCHING FOR HELP TOO!
Leather Slippers
Poinsettia care?
Do not over water, the biggest killer of houseplants. Keep away from direct sunlight in a cool spot. Feed with weak fertilizer fortnightly. If you plant is soggy, remove from pot and allow compost to dry, then re-pot in new compost
Reply:You should keep it in indirect sunlight for at least 6 hours per day. It should be kept at room temperature and try to keep it away from cold and hot drafts. Water it only when the soil feels dry, but do not let it sit in water. After the plant drains pore out the water underneath. If you have to move it to another room for proper temperature, feel free. Pointsettias are not as moody as many plants. In other words, they will not be stressed by moving them. Make sure you talk to it and give it lots of love and it should be okay.
Good luck!
Reply:I hate them. Get rid of it!
Reply:THIS INFO FOUND FROM A GOOGLE SEARCH, HOPE IT HELPS!:
To initiate short days the plant must be in complete
darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m., which can be accomplished by placing the plant in a
dark closet or in a light-proof box. Any light that is received during the dark period
can delay flowering.
Light is still needed for growth, so the plant should be placed in a sunny location
from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Water as needed and fertilize every week according to the fertilizer
label until bract color develops. Once color is visible, it is not necessary to keep the
poinsettia in complete darkness during the night. At this time, the plant flowers with any
amount of daylight. Directions at a Glance Being able to to rebloom poinsettias for several
years is a great accomplishment. Use the following schedule as a reminder. May: Cut back
stems to 3–6 inches above the soil. Repot or separate if needed. Place in sunny window and
water when soil is dry to touch. (Root cuttings if desired.)
June: Move plant outside.
Water and fertilize more frequently as plant grows.
July 1: First pinch.
August 15: Second pinch. September 1: Bring plant indoors to sunny location at 65 to 75°F.
October: Initiate short days (for mid-December bloom date). Water as needed and fertilize
weekly according to label
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
THIS PART I FOUND FROM ANOTHER ASK YAHOO ANSWER, AND FOUND IT TO BE VERY HELPFUL AS WELL:
Poinsettias are hard to grow and its conditions for growth could only be afforded by
greenhouses. But you could still keep it alive.
The ideal location for a poinsettia plant is in front of a warm, sunny, draft-free south,
east, or west-facing window behind a veil of filtered sunlight. Poinsettias are tropical
plants, so take care not to place it against the glass where it can suffer damage from the
cold. Indoor temperatures should be maintained between 68'F and 70'F.
Turn the pot a quarter turn once a week to provide ample light to the entire plant for even growth and
uniformity.
The soil should be kept evenly moist but never saturated. Over watering could cause foliage
loss.
More information is available at:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/poinset...
GOOD LUCK! MY LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF SO FAST THAT I GOT PANICKY AND STARTING SEARCHING FOR HELP TOO!
Leather Slippers
Longevity of poinsettia plants?
I'm going to purchase a poinsettia plant (red, specifically) at a local florist as a hostess gift for a party tonight. Will it keep if I leave it in my car for 4-5 hours, or should I bring it inside my office?
Also, how long will a good poinsettia plant last?
Longevity of poinsettia plants?
Many who keep poinsettias assume that it will last for months in the home environment. Cared-for properly, the poinsettia will give weeks of color and pleasure to its owner. Left in the car, however, it may not fair so well.
Bring it inside. Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts from radiators, air registers or open doors and windows. Ideally poinsettias require daytime temperatures of 60 to 70°F and night time temperatures around 55°F. High temperatures will shorten the plant’s life. Move the plant to a cooler room at night, if possible.
You need to make sure that it's watered properly. Keep the soil damp but not sopping wet. The dampness should feel cool to the touch. The soil shouldn't be light brown or heavy and black.
Reply:It will be Just fine as long as the temperture remains above freezing . Preferbly 40 and up.
Poinsettias are grown under ideal conditions in order to get them ready for marketing. When they are subjected to a different envirement, they start going through a shock process .partickly in a home envirement where there is high heat and low humidity. They usually look good from two to three weeks and then start loosing their folage. This doesn't mean that the plant is dying , it is adjusting to the new envirement.You. With lots of TLC ,it can survive. Keep it in a well lit COOL location with 50% humidity or better .I live in Ohio and my buddy has one in his bathroom over 15 yrs old.
Reply:they are a living plant so just take care of it and it will stay alive for ever
Reply:60-70 degrees F daytimes and 60-65 degrees F nightimes. Avoid excessiveely hot or cold areas. bright light and cool night temperature will help delay flower bud drop and will maintain brightly colored flowers. bright lights are best but poinsettias will tolerate low light. poinsettiaswill benefit from periodic fertilizer, used according to directions on manufacturers directions. moderate moist soil is preferred.
Reply:Listen to norman777.
Here in the USA, greenhouses "force them" to flower during the holidays.
Reply:my grandmother manages to keep all her plants, including pointsettias thriving by bringing taking them to her basement and basically neglecting them all season. they're the largest, healthiest plants i've ever seen.
Reply:i think you should take it inside your office because 4-5 hrs is a long time for any flower to stay in the car%26amp;it also depends on the temperature at that time. now to ur second question,a good poinsettia will last long depending on how good you take care of this plant.i can give you a tip on how to do that-put 6-8 cubes into the soil everyday will do a good job of keeping the plant adequately moist which is very important for the plant to live.
Reply:They are native to Mexico so cold weather will do them in.
I have kept them alive for several years. They get woody and leggy over time. Pruning would help.
They have special light cycle needs in order to bloom, so be ready to give them several weeks of special treatment in the fall.
Check a plant book for the specifics on timing of light and darkness.
Reply:If you take proper care of it, a poinsettia can live on and on. It is a member of the very large euphorbia family. I have a poinsettia tree from last Christmas.Sadly it was attacked by white fly and I didn't remedy the problem. Yet it still lives.
Reply:It depends where you live.
If it is freezing cold, then yes, take the plant inside with you.
If it is extremely warm, then yes again, take it inside the office.
Poinsettia's cannot withstand extreme temperatures, but they are sturdy plants, and if taking the plant into the office is a hassle for you, leaving it in your car for a few hours shouldn't hurt it.
3 years ago, I bought a poinsettia plant, a small red one, and it's still thriving and turned red again in time for Christmas!
I do not have a green thumb, believe me, but this plant is quite hearty and we have repotted it 3 times.
I let the soil dry out, on average 3 days during the summer, and then soak the soil.
It is very dry where I live, so during the winter I water it nearly everyday.
We even take the plant with us on vacations!
The colorful leaves are not the flower, but the tiny yellow buds inside are!
The plant has lost nearly all its leaves during the summer months, but there were green buds, and new chutes.
This Christmas, our poinsettia is 10 times the size that it was when we first purchased it!
Enjoy and Merry Christmas!
Reply:Bring it into the office.
I kept mine last year. It looked progressively worse, and died about June, although I fed it and watered it properly.
Reply:I've been given these plants for Christmas. And they never lived beyond January. I don't know why. They dry out, despite me given the best of care.
Most of what the store sells seem just like buying other flowers like roses that die within one or two weeks. Makes you think. After all, many people buy real X-mass trees, and then they die.
Reply:IT IS ANNUAL BUT CAN LIVE SEVERAL SEASONS IF TRAINED UNDER IDEAL NIGHT TO DAY OPTIONS.
Reply:To be safe, bring it inside. Poinsettia plants are very sensitive to cold, so if the weather is bad or it gets chilly in your car, it can actually kill the plant.
In terms of how long the plant will last, I think they have kind of a short shelf life, since they are more of a seasonal plant. Your hostess will probably get at least a good week to two weeks if she takes care to keep the plant warm and water it regularly. They are great for parties, though, because they are very pretty to look at and inexpensive. And when the holiday is over, they're life has usually expired, too. Good luck!
Reply:u should bring it inside cuz if u leave it ur car itll get smushed and stuff
Reply:Don't leave in direct sun lite or high heat. They will last until they wilt.
Reply:I have had a poinsettia plant for about 10 years and I put it outside during the summer and bring it back in and it blooms each year.
Reply:Don't worry about it.... It will keep....just don't place it in the car where the sun can come through the window and shine on it. This will dry it out and possibly cook it or wilt it down. Otherwise it will make a lovely gift. Good Luck... ---jim---
Reply:If the weather is cold take it inside. As to how long a poinsetta plant last, I have one from my mothers funeral two years ago that is still living today.
Reply:Do not leave the plant in your car,bring it in with you.
As to the longivity of the plant it can live for several years. When the leaves fall off,trim the branches back. In the spring re-pot into fresh soil. In the fall it needs to be put in a dark place for 10-12 hrs a day to force new blooms for the next Christmas season. I start putting mine in the dark in mid to late Oct. if you don't have a room you can put it in in the dark, you can put it in a closet, or turn a cardboard box upside down over it. but it is important to give it 10-12 hrs of dark DAILY in the fall to get it to re-bloom.
Reply:3days
Reply:Don't leave it in the car, if it is tool cold outside. These plants do live for several years in doors, provided you water them once weekly. However, the pretty colors will not be retained and all the leaves turn green.
Reply:Conifers
Reply:http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0894...
Life Expectancy of the Poinsettia - The poinsettia is a perennial plant, so it can live for many years. However, the average span of time in which a poinsettia is most attractive in the home is 2 to 4 weeks. With excellent care, it could last from 6 to 8 weeks. The maturity of the plant when it was purchased also plays a role in longevity of your poinsettia.
Post-Holiday Care - If you want to maintain your poinsettia beyond the Christmas season, you will need to give it some attention on a regular basis. And, there are some critical times at which you will need to tend your plant.In early April, cut the plant back to about 6 or 8 inches in height and place it outside in the shade. Keep the plant watered. Fertilize the poin-settia regularly when new growth begins. Pinch growing tips every 4 to 6 weeks during the sum-mer to make the plant bushy. But do not prune any more after September 1. You can re-pot your poinsettia to a larger sized container in May. Use a potting mix similar in composition to the one in which the plant is currently growing. Bring the plant indoors before the threat of cool weather.
Reply:You can safely leave it in the car for 4-5 hours. No issues.
Poinsettia plants, if treated well, would live several years. You need to keep them inside the house if it's very hot and sunny outside. Similarly, you should not expose them to below-45 weather during winter.
They, however, will lose their color in April-July timeframe. Again, if treated well, they will get back their color in late-fall/early-winter... But that's a tricky thing... You need to keep them in total darkness at night at that time of the year.
Reply:they can last all season and through the new year. even when you lose the red from it the green will stll be nice.
Reply:We have had the same poinsettia for 7 years now. We put in a closet at least 12 hours a day in the warmer months and clip off the stems in groups of 7, I don't really know why, but it always comes back strong in the late fall.
Reply:As long as the plant is not in the sun it will be fine. Poinsettia's can last for years. My Mom had a hugh 20 year old poinsettia tree in her yard that started as a samll potted plant. It all depends on the care it gets early on.
Reply:1st - What will the temp. in your car be for that time? Cool temps are the best, and in the 30s is okay if the sun is out to keep the plant from freezing. However, if it will be hot in your car, take it inside.
2nd - A good poinsettia CAN last for a number of years if taken care of properly. Water regularly, after the surface is dry to the touch, but do not keep the roots soggy. Typically, after the holidays, the plant should be kept in a cooler, very dim to dark area for the next 10 months or so (still water regularly, and transplanted ONLY if absolutely needed). Towards the middle of November, it can be brought back out into the light. This will cause the leaves to once again turn red.
Good Luck
Reply:Best to bring it in with you, and give it a little water WITH a plate under it - don't forget the plate.
Reply:Poinsettia production starts with planning and not with panning. The first step in the planning process is to determine when you want plants salable. From that date, the timing of every other process is determined. It is real tempting to write this from flowering to propagation, however I will not do that to avoid confusion.
Planning (scheduling) Decisions
Flower date - ?
(response group)
Short days start - ?
Pinch date - ?
Pot date - ?
Propagation date - ?
Stock and Propagation
Poinsettia stock can be planted in March for a 3 pinch program, April for a 2 pinch program, or May for a 1 pinch program. Each of the programs have advantages and disadvantages. Less cuttings are produced per plant with the later planting, however the saving of early spring space for other production is often more valuable. Single pinched stock plants can also be grown in small containers but certainly require more greenhouse space. Stock plants should receive adequate light and space for pinching and harvesting of cuttings.
Stock plants must be grown in long days. Incandescent lighting (10 foot candles) should be provided from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. from planting until mid-May. Plants are pinched 2 weeks after potting and every 4-6 weeks to buildup cuttings and to maintain soft vegetative growth. 2-4 nodes are left on the pinched shoot. Poinsettia cultivar does affect the number of cuttings from a stock plant as well as scheduling of pinching and cutting removal. Seek guidelines for specific cultivars and follow those guidelines. Those guidelines are available from the breeders and suppliers.
Poinsettia cuttings 2.5-3 inches long are snapped or cut from stock plants with a sharp clean knife. The knife should be disinfected between stock plants. Cuttings should be taken in the morning when plants are turgid and should be placed in clean plastic bags or on clean newspaper. Cuttings should be treated with a rooting hormone to improve rooting uniformity and speed, stuck quickly, and not allowed to wilt. It is not necessary or desirable to remove leaves from the cuttings.
Poinsettia cuttings can be rooted in peat pellets (Jiffy 7's, Jiffy 9's), phenolic foam (Oasis), rockwool, or root medium filled cells. Cuttings can also be direct stuck in the finish container but this method requires a great deal of mist space. Whatever root medium or method is selected, great care should be taken to assure the medium is free of disease at the start and remains disease free through out propagation.
Cuttings must be rooted under intermittent mist. Mist is applied from sunrise to sunset at a frequency that keeps cutting leaves uniformly moist. Mist frequency may start with a mist cycle of 10 seconds every 4-6 minutes for the first 4 days. Mist frequency is reduced every 4-5 days as plants callous and root. After cuttings are stuck, it is very important to arrange leaves so cutting terminals (growing points) are not covered.
Temperature is very important during propagation. Minimum air temperature should be 70ûF. Bottom heat should maintain a root medium temperature of 75-80ûF. Cuttings should show visible roots in 21 days and be ready for potting in 28 days. Cuttings should be fertilized under mist beginning 14 days after sticking.
Scheduling
Poinsettia scheduling is required to provide top quality plants to the ever lengthening poinsettia market. The present market requires flowering plants from as early as the first week in November through the Christmas season. It is impossible to provide plants in prime condition without scheduling. Growing temperature should not be used to schedule poinsettias. Low temperatures, less than 62ûF. night/70ûF day, will delay flowering but will also reduce bract size. High temperature, greater than 65ûF night/80ûF day, will speed flowering but reduces plant quality and fades bract color. Cultivars can also be selected for early or late flowering, however your customer may complain if cultivars are changed during the marketing period. Therefore cultivar selection, although useful in specific cases, can not always be used to spread poinsettia flowering.
Response group (short days start until flower)
8 - 10 weeks
Natural season flower dates (Nov. 20 - Dec. 4)
2 weeks is a big difference
What is flowering in poinsettias? Anthesis or visible pollen on the first cyathia should be used as your guide to a salable poinsettia. Plants without pollen will never develop to their full potential in the post harvest environment and plants held in the greenhouse after anthesis, even at cool temperatures, will show reduced postharvest quality and longevity.
With all the new cultivars and their differences, along with the need for prime plants over a four week period, make poinsettia scheduling much more difficult. Different growth habits among cultivars also adds to the complexity. And on top of this complexity add the differences in growing conditions between the northern and southern production areas.
Cultivar
Growth Habit
Short
Medium
Tall
But there are some general guidelines that are very important to remember: Natural short days start around 25 September (probably a little earlier for Freedom). If you do nothing, flower initiation will occur on that date. Lighting, to prevent initiation and make sure the plants remain vegetative, should start on September 5.
Lighting should begin September 5.
Two to three weeks of growth is needed between panning and pinching to develop a good root system before pinching. The time between pinching and the start of short days is to me the most critical decision on overall crop quality. This can vary between two to five weeks, depending on the cultivar and growing conditions. I would strongly suggest you seek information from the breeders and universities in your specific area to help in these scheduling issues. The time between the pinch and the start of short days greatly affects final height and overall plant size. We have tools to control size but few tools exist to increase size after the start of short days. The maximum potential height and overall plant size is in some respects determined at the start of short days.
Freedom scheduling as an example between flowering time and region1
North South
early late2 early late2
pot Aug. 05 Aug. 15 Aug. 15 Aug. 21
pinch Aug. 19 Sept. 05 Sept. 1-7 Sept. 10
short days natural Sept. 29 natural Oct. 06
flower Nov. 15-25 Dec. 01 Nov. 15-20 Dec. 01
1long day lighting should start on Sept. 5
2from Nell, Barrett, Hartley Grower Talks/August 1993.
Media and Fertilization
The root medium used for poinsettias should be porous, well-drained, contain a moderate nutrient content, have a pH of 5.8-6.2, be free of insects and disease pests, and be easy to manage. You also want to select a medium that will be appropriate for the consumer. It should not be so well drained that in the home environment it is impossible to keep it moist.
Poinsettias have generally been considered a high fertility requiring crop. Although the light leaf cultivars fit into this category, the newer dark leaf cultivars require lower nutrient levels (150-200 ppm N). In fact, high levels of fertility (300 ppm N) can reduce crop quality in the darker leafed cultivars. My experience would suggest that you really need to fertilize the light and dark leaf cultivars differently and not compromise somewhere between the high and low levels when growing both groups in the same greenhouse.
Micro-nutrients are important in poinsettia production. Poinsettias have a high requirement for molybdenum (Mo) which is generally added at each watering at 0.1 ppm.
0.1 ppm Mo Application
Stock
1 oz. of ammonium or sodium molybdate/40.0 fl. oz. water
Application
0.15 fl. oz. of stock solution/100 gallons of water
Research has also shown the importance of the calcium to magnesium ratio for adequate calcium uptake in poinsettia production. High levels of magnesium interfere with calcium uptake, while too low levels of magnesium will cause magnesium deficiency, another common problem in poinsettia production. The best ratio of Ca:Mg for poinsettia production appears to be 2:1. Both calcium and magnesium should be monitored with root medium analysis because hey are both very important macro nutrients in poinsettia production.
Height Control
Growers generally apply a chemical growth retardant to poinsettias to reduce height and tone the plant. Commonly used chemicals are: Ancymidol (A-Rest), Daminozide (B-Nine SP), Paclobutrazol (Bonzi), Chlormequat (Cycocel), (Sumagic), and B-Nine SP/Cycocel tank mix. Different cultivars respond differently to the various chemicals therefore growers must adjust rates in their own production. General ranges are: Cycocel, 1,000 - 3,000 ppm; Bonzi, 10-30 ppm; Sumagic, 2-10 ppm; B-Nine Sp/Cycocel tank mix, 2500 ppm B-Nine SP/1500 ppm Cycocel; and A-Rest, .25 to .5 mg a.i. drench. Chemical growth retardants should not be applied after the start of short days as bract size can be significantly reduced in the northern United States.
Cut-off dates for B-Nine/Cycocel, Bonzi, Sumagic
North - start of short day
South - 2-4 weeks after start of short days
Research has shown that very low concentrations (1-2 ppm) of Bonzi or A-Rest can be applied as a drench as late as early November for height control without a significant bract size reduction. This approach is useful to correct a height problem occurring late in the production cycle and to avoid late stretch.
Late drenches of growth regulators
A-Rest
1 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./pot)
0.485 fl. oz./gallon
2 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./pot)
0.970 fl. oz./gallon
Bonzi
1 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./6" pot)
0.032 fl. oz./gallon
2 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./6" pot)
0.064 fl. oz./gallon
higher rates in the South, lower in the North
DIF is also used to manipulate poinsettia height in those areas with cool day temperatures. A positive DIF increases stem elongation and a negative DIF decreases stem elongation. Computer software is available to use DIF as a tool to control plant height. It is very important that average daily temperature not be changed when using DIF, therefore both day and night temperatures need to be adjusted to maintain the same average daily temperature. Average growing temperature can affect timing and bract size.
DIF - difference in day/night temperature
Positive DIF
warm day/cooler night taller plants
Negative DIF
cooler day/warmer night shorter plants
Bract Disorder
A number of bract disorders can cause serious problems in poinsettia production which appear suddenly at flowering. The grower has little chance to correct these problems once they appear. Research has shown bract necrosis (also called bract edge burn) can be caused by a number of factors including calcium deficiency in the bract tissue, fluoride toxicity, imbalances in Ca/Mg or Ca/K ratios, and pesticide toxicity. The following guidelines can be used to help reduce poinsettia bract necrosis:
• Supply adequate calcium in the fertilization program.
• Provide a calcium uptake environment
- reduce humidity in the greenhouse
- maintain good root growth
- use a well drained root medium
- reduce fertilizer salts
• Avoid fluoride
• Avoid pesticides on bracts
• Maintain 2:1 calcium: Magnesium ratio
• Avoid excess levels of potassium
• Select cultivars less sensitive to bract necrosis
Weekly sprays of 400 ppm calcium from calcium chloride beginning at first color have significantly reduced poinsettia bract necrosis. Spray plants to runoff making sure bract tissue is covered. I personally do not recommend a wetting agent from fear of phytotoxicity, although other researchers do recommend a wetting agent to improve coverage. Growers that have experienced any bract necrosis should spray plants with calcium as insurance.
400 ppm calcium spray solution
use 'reagent' grade chemical
Calcium Chloride Dihydrate
(CaCl2 • 2 H2O)
1.47 gm/liter water
or
55.6 gm/10 gallons water
or
1.96 oz./10 gallons water
Post Harvest
Poinsettia growers have a responsibility in post production longevity of the plants you grow. You simply can not afford to just be happy to have the plant out of the greenhouse door. Happy poinsettia consumers make for repeat customers.
The grower's responsibility in postharvest care is to provide the best poinsettia possible at the proper stage of development, free of insects and diseases, and low in soluble salts (fertilizer). Research has clearly shown that poinsettias have a much longer and better display life when sold at visible pollen. Young underdeveloped bracts will never develop good color in the postharvest environment. Pink bracts on red cultivars result when plants leave the production environment too early. Do not sell a poinsettia before its time!
Fertilizer salts should be reduced before selling, however t is not necessary or desirable to completely eliminate fertilizer application, just reduce the rate to 1/2 or 1/4 the rate used during early production. Poinsettias can also receive chilling injury when exposed to 50°F or less for as short as a two hour period of time. Chilling injury can cause epinasty as well as leaf loss under the most severe case. Transporting plants in unheated trucks in the north and uncooled trucks in the south can significantly reduce poinsettia quality. Certainly a general guideline is that poinsettias do much better when placed in a uniform non stressful environment. The best environment could be compared to the environment you would provide for a newborn baby but just a few degrees cooler (60 to 65°F).
The greenhouse grower should provide the following instructions to retailers. Upon receiving plants, unpack and unsleeve them immediately. Poinsettias left in the sleeve become droopy. This epinasty is caused by ethylene production from the sleeving process. The longer poinsettias are sleeved and the higher the temperature above 65°F, the greater the droopiness problem. The plants generally recover from epinasty in a couple of days when placed in a lighted area at 65-75°F if the sleeving period was longer than a couple of days.
Poinsettias should be placed in bright light at 60-65°F. They should however not receive direct sunlight under postharvest conditions. The plants should be out of hot or cold drafts. A heat duct or outside door should not expose the plants to sudden changes in temperature. At no time should poinsettias be stored in a garage area.
Poinsettias are fragile. Rough handling will bruise the bracts and cause stem and leaf breakage. Poinsettia plants can not be handled like hard goods. Also be sure to provide adequate spacing in the display area. Plants should not be spaced so close together that the bracts from one plant rub against the bracts of an adjacent plant.
As a poinsettia producer and marketer, you can do a great deal to maintain the potential postharvest beauty and longevity built into the modern poinsettia cultivars. At the same time you can reduce the postharvest life of the poinsettias you handle. It is extremely important that we all do our very best to give the consumer the best possible poinsettia. Plant abuse anywhere in the marketing chain will ultimately showup in the final consumer setting - whether it be a hotel lobby, mall display, or home living room. I like the concept that each poinsettia plant should be handled like it is the one you would take home for Christmas. Every poinsettia consumer deserves such treatment
Common name: Poinsettias
Latin name: Euphorbia pulcherrima
Native to: Man made hybrids
Growth habit: An upright woody bush usually not over 4 feet in height or 3 foot in width.
Temps: Normal indoor temps
Humidity: Not critical
Pests: Watch for white fly.
Lighting:
The Poinsettia was named after Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to the Republic of Mexico back in 1825.
Cultural information: As the holidays near... we all begin to decorate our homes for the season. The Christmas tree is up... the lights are on. It's time to shop for a Poinsettia.
Did you know that their is a major difference in Poinsettias found in the mass markets... versos your local garden center or floral shop? The difference is quality and longevity. How long did the mass market Poinsettia live... two or three weeks tops? Your local garden center or floral shop has Colorado grown Poinsettias that will last well beyond the holiday season.
For optimum shelf life... place your Poinsettia in bright filtered light. Rotate your plant daily if the back side of the plant is not receiving light. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Poinsettias don't like to sit in a saucer of water. Your Poinsettia will not need any fertilizer until well after the holidays. This holiday season... purchase a Colorado grown Poinsettia!
POINSETTIA'S LONGEVITY DEPENDS ON OWNER CARE.(GARDENING Q%26amp;A)(LIFE)
Source: The News %26amp; Record (Piedmont Triad, NC)
Publication Date: 11-DEC-04
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POINSETTIA'S LONGEVITY DEPENDS ON OWNER CARE.(GARDENING Q%26amp;A)(LIFE)
COPYRIGHT 2004 News %26amp; Record
Q. Each year we use poinsettia plants as part of our holiday decorations, but they seem to suffer and may not even last the entire season without dropping leaves, withering and sometimes dying entirely. What can we do to help them survive the season with us?
A. How well a plant will adapt to new surroundings can be determined before it leaves the store. Ask yourself a few questions as you examine the selections.
You are looking for the healthiest specimen, one that stands straight and tall with stiff limbs. No droopy or floppy plant will last long. Also, what color are the leaves? They must be deep, not light green. And the bloom (bracts, which we think of as the flowers) need to have strong...
POINSETTIA
(Euphorbia pulcherrima willd.)
Harvesting %26amp; Marketing
Production conditions to maximize postharvest longevity
Cool finishing temperatures increase bract and leaf retention.
Reduced fertilization during finishing (fertilization stopped one to two weeks before shipping) increases leaf retention.
Handling
Store plants for a minimum time and in the light. Plants stored in the dark have increased leaf drop and cyathia abscission.
Plants should be sleeved just before shipping to minimize damage in transit. Sleeves should be removed as soon as possible to limit epinasty (droopy leaves).
Store plants at 50 to 60oF for best longevity. Do not expose plants to temperatures less than 50oF.
Display conditions
High light intensity (75 to 225 footcandles) and long photoperiods reduce leaf loss. Less leaf loss occurs under incandescent than cool-white fluorescent light.
Cooler temperatures (about 60oF) increase longevity.
Source(s):
Michigan State University Extension
http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/iac/florflo...
Whether cut flowers are grown in a home garden or in a greenhouse by commercial experts, their care is a science.
To keep cut flowers beautiful longer; remember that they have been removed from their source of water, the root system, and will wilt quickly if not placed in water. Cut stems should be placed in water immediately, as air will rapidly move into the water-conducting tissues and plug the cells. This is why the cut flower that has been out of water more than a few minutes should have a small portion of the lower stem cut off so that water will move up freely when it is returned to water. Cuts can be made under-water to assure no air enters the stem.
A cut flower also has been removed from a major source of food—the leaves on the plant to which it was attached. Although the leaves on the flowering stem make food, once indoors they are in a reduced light situation and this limits available carbohydrates.
Use a Preservative
Commercial preservatives will increase the life of cut flowers and should always be used. (Adding aspirin, wine, or pennies to cut flowers WILL NOT help to keep them fresh longer. Do not attempt a home brew concoction.) A floral preservative is a complex mixture of sucrose (sugar); acidifier, an inhibitor of microorganisms; and a respiratory inhibitor. Sucrose serves as a source of energy to make up for the loss of the functioning leaves and insures continued development and longevity of the flower.
An acidifier makes the pH of the water more near the acid pH of the cell sap. Most water supplies are alkaline and can reduce the life of cut flowers. The acidifier also stabilizes the pigment and the color of the flower. This is why red roses turn "blue" when placed in water without a preservative or acidifier.
A microorganism growth inhibitor is perhaps the most important part of a floral preservative. Bacteria and fungi are everywhere and are ready to enter the cut surface of the stem and multiply. Prior to actual decay symptoms, cells of the water-transporting tissues can become blocked with microorganisms, inhibiting water uptake.
To aid the floral preservative in slowing down microorganisms, always clean the vase or container. Also remove all leaves below the water surface, as they soon deteriorate. Water and water uptake are major factors in keeping cut flowers fresh.
A process called "hardening" ensures maximum water uptake. It simply means placing the freshly cut stem in 110° F (43.5° C) water (plus preservative). Place in a cool location for an hour or two. Maximum water uptake is attained because water molecules move rapidly at 110° F (kinetic energy) and quickly move up the stems. Flowers at cool temperatures lose less water. In this one brief period while the water is cooling, freshly harvested stems, leaves, and flowers take up almost as much water as in the balance of their life.
Other Tips for Long-Lasting Cut Flowers
Check the water level of the container or vase daily and add water plus preservative when needed.
Keep flowers away from hot or cold air drafts and hot spots (radiators, direct heat, or television sets).
While both drafts and hot spots increase water loss, hot spots reduce a flower's life by speeding transpiration (water loss) and respiration (use of stored food such as sugars) and increasing development (rate of petal unfolding).
When away from home, move the flowers into the refrigerator or the coldest (above 35° F/1.5° C) spot in the house. Again, this will slow down water loss, respiration, and development.
Never store fruit and flowers together. Apples produce ethylene gas, a hormone that causes senescence, or aging, in flowers.
In summary, to keep cut flowers longer:
ü Recut the stems and remove excess foliage.
ü Harden the flowers by setting them in warm water in a cool place.
ü Use a floral preservative.
ü Keep them cool and avoid drafts, hot spots, and television sets.
ü Use a clean vase or container and check the water level daily.
Flowering Plants
Inadequate light, high temperatures, and improper watering are the common causes of failure in flowering plants. These plants are grown in a greenhouse where the night temperature is usually cool, the air is moist, and light is ample. When these plants are brought into a dry home where the light is poor and the temperature is maintained for human comfort without consideration for the plants, the results are often disappointing.
Poinsettias
Poinsettias require bright light and should be kept away from drafts. A temperature between 65° and 70° F is ideal. Avoid temperatures below 60° and above 75° F. Keep the plants well watered but do not over-water. Newer, long-lasting varieties can be kept attractive all winter.
Reflowering a Poinsettia
The poinsettia blooms during short days. Starting October 1, exclude poinsettia from artificial light for 16 hours; either cover with a light-proof box each evening or place in an unlighted room or closet. Expose to full light during the day (eight hour days). Use fertilizer when new growth is visible. After 10 weeks of short days, the plants should reflower.
Easter Lilies
Keep the plants in a sunny place where the temperature does not fall below 60° F. Water when the soil feels dry.
After the plants have turned brown, cut off the stem at the soil surface. When the garden soil warms up in late May, move the plants outdoors. Choose a warm sunny place with well-drained soil. Plant the bulbs four to six inches deep (soil surface to the top of the bulb) in most soils and somewhat deeper in sandy soil. Easter lilies may bloom the first fall after being set outdoors. They are easy to transplant.
Fertilize several times during the summer and use a mulch to keep the soil moist. In the fall when the soil is lightly frozen, apply evergreen boughs or marsh hay around the plants. Keep this mulch on until new growth develops the next spring.
Azaleas
Azaleas require direct sunlight to remain healthy. A night temperature of 50° to 60° F will prolong blooming. Keep the soil moist. Azaleas can be planted in a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. Feed them with an acid fertilizer and examine them frequently, keeping plants watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas will not survive Zone 4 winters.
Azaleas need short days and cool temperatures to form flower buds. If you can provide short days, after buds have formed, a six- to eight-week cool treatment is needed before plants will bloom. A well-lighted room with a temperature of 35° to 50° F is ideal, but hard to find in most homes. Unless you have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not attempt to carry the plants over to the next year.
Cyclamens
Cyclamens require full sunlight and a night temperature of between 50° and 60° F. Flower buds will fail to develop if the night temperature is too high or if the light is poor. They require regular watering.
Plants can be carried over, but as with the poinsettias, homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial grower.
Gardenias
Gardenias grown indoors need special care and specific conditions. They demand an acid soil and should receive the same nutritional care as azaleas. The night temperature should be near 60° F and the humidity around the plant should be kept high. High temperature and low light intensity will result in flower-bud drop.
Also, how long will a good poinsettia plant last?
Longevity of poinsettia plants?
Many who keep poinsettias assume that it will last for months in the home environment. Cared-for properly, the poinsettia will give weeks of color and pleasure to its owner. Left in the car, however, it may not fair so well.
Bring it inside. Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts from radiators, air registers or open doors and windows. Ideally poinsettias require daytime temperatures of 60 to 70°F and night time temperatures around 55°F. High temperatures will shorten the plant’s life. Move the plant to a cooler room at night, if possible.
You need to make sure that it's watered properly. Keep the soil damp but not sopping wet. The dampness should feel cool to the touch. The soil shouldn't be light brown or heavy and black.
Reply:It will be Just fine as long as the temperture remains above freezing . Preferbly 40 and up.
Poinsettias are grown under ideal conditions in order to get them ready for marketing. When they are subjected to a different envirement, they start going through a shock process .partickly in a home envirement where there is high heat and low humidity. They usually look good from two to three weeks and then start loosing their folage. This doesn't mean that the plant is dying , it is adjusting to the new envirement.You. With lots of TLC ,it can survive. Keep it in a well lit COOL location with 50% humidity or better .I live in Ohio and my buddy has one in his bathroom over 15 yrs old.
Reply:they are a living plant so just take care of it and it will stay alive for ever
Reply:60-70 degrees F daytimes and 60-65 degrees F nightimes. Avoid excessiveely hot or cold areas. bright light and cool night temperature will help delay flower bud drop and will maintain brightly colored flowers. bright lights are best but poinsettias will tolerate low light. poinsettiaswill benefit from periodic fertilizer, used according to directions on manufacturers directions. moderate moist soil is preferred.
Reply:Listen to norman777.
Here in the USA, greenhouses "force them" to flower during the holidays.
Reply:my grandmother manages to keep all her plants, including pointsettias thriving by bringing taking them to her basement and basically neglecting them all season. they're the largest, healthiest plants i've ever seen.
Reply:i think you should take it inside your office because 4-5 hrs is a long time for any flower to stay in the car%26amp;it also depends on the temperature at that time. now to ur second question,a good poinsettia will last long depending on how good you take care of this plant.i can give you a tip on how to do that-put 6-8 cubes into the soil everyday will do a good job of keeping the plant adequately moist which is very important for the plant to live.
Reply:They are native to Mexico so cold weather will do them in.
I have kept them alive for several years. They get woody and leggy over time. Pruning would help.
They have special light cycle needs in order to bloom, so be ready to give them several weeks of special treatment in the fall.
Check a plant book for the specifics on timing of light and darkness.
Reply:If you take proper care of it, a poinsettia can live on and on. It is a member of the very large euphorbia family. I have a poinsettia tree from last Christmas.Sadly it was attacked by white fly and I didn't remedy the problem. Yet it still lives.
Reply:It depends where you live.
If it is freezing cold, then yes, take the plant inside with you.
If it is extremely warm, then yes again, take it inside the office.
Poinsettia's cannot withstand extreme temperatures, but they are sturdy plants, and if taking the plant into the office is a hassle for you, leaving it in your car for a few hours shouldn't hurt it.
3 years ago, I bought a poinsettia plant, a small red one, and it's still thriving and turned red again in time for Christmas!
I do not have a green thumb, believe me, but this plant is quite hearty and we have repotted it 3 times.
I let the soil dry out, on average 3 days during the summer, and then soak the soil.
It is very dry where I live, so during the winter I water it nearly everyday.
We even take the plant with us on vacations!
The colorful leaves are not the flower, but the tiny yellow buds inside are!
The plant has lost nearly all its leaves during the summer months, but there were green buds, and new chutes.
This Christmas, our poinsettia is 10 times the size that it was when we first purchased it!
Enjoy and Merry Christmas!
Reply:Bring it into the office.
I kept mine last year. It looked progressively worse, and died about June, although I fed it and watered it properly.
Reply:I've been given these plants for Christmas. And they never lived beyond January. I don't know why. They dry out, despite me given the best of care.
Most of what the store sells seem just like buying other flowers like roses that die within one or two weeks. Makes you think. After all, many people buy real X-mass trees, and then they die.
Reply:IT IS ANNUAL BUT CAN LIVE SEVERAL SEASONS IF TRAINED UNDER IDEAL NIGHT TO DAY OPTIONS.
Reply:To be safe, bring it inside. Poinsettia plants are very sensitive to cold, so if the weather is bad or it gets chilly in your car, it can actually kill the plant.
In terms of how long the plant will last, I think they have kind of a short shelf life, since they are more of a seasonal plant. Your hostess will probably get at least a good week to two weeks if she takes care to keep the plant warm and water it regularly. They are great for parties, though, because they are very pretty to look at and inexpensive. And when the holiday is over, they're life has usually expired, too. Good luck!
Reply:u should bring it inside cuz if u leave it ur car itll get smushed and stuff
Reply:Don't leave in direct sun lite or high heat. They will last until they wilt.
Reply:I have had a poinsettia plant for about 10 years and I put it outside during the summer and bring it back in and it blooms each year.
Reply:Don't worry about it.... It will keep....just don't place it in the car where the sun can come through the window and shine on it. This will dry it out and possibly cook it or wilt it down. Otherwise it will make a lovely gift. Good Luck... ---jim---
Reply:If the weather is cold take it inside. As to how long a poinsetta plant last, I have one from my mothers funeral two years ago that is still living today.
Reply:Do not leave the plant in your car,bring it in with you.
As to the longivity of the plant it can live for several years. When the leaves fall off,trim the branches back. In the spring re-pot into fresh soil. In the fall it needs to be put in a dark place for 10-12 hrs a day to force new blooms for the next Christmas season. I start putting mine in the dark in mid to late Oct. if you don't have a room you can put it in in the dark, you can put it in a closet, or turn a cardboard box upside down over it. but it is important to give it 10-12 hrs of dark DAILY in the fall to get it to re-bloom.
Reply:3days
Reply:Don't leave it in the car, if it is tool cold outside. These plants do live for several years in doors, provided you water them once weekly. However, the pretty colors will not be retained and all the leaves turn green.
Reply:Conifers
Reply:http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0894...
Life Expectancy of the Poinsettia - The poinsettia is a perennial plant, so it can live for many years. However, the average span of time in which a poinsettia is most attractive in the home is 2 to 4 weeks. With excellent care, it could last from 6 to 8 weeks. The maturity of the plant when it was purchased also plays a role in longevity of your poinsettia.
Post-Holiday Care - If you want to maintain your poinsettia beyond the Christmas season, you will need to give it some attention on a regular basis. And, there are some critical times at which you will need to tend your plant.In early April, cut the plant back to about 6 or 8 inches in height and place it outside in the shade. Keep the plant watered. Fertilize the poin-settia regularly when new growth begins. Pinch growing tips every 4 to 6 weeks during the sum-mer to make the plant bushy. But do not prune any more after September 1. You can re-pot your poinsettia to a larger sized container in May. Use a potting mix similar in composition to the one in which the plant is currently growing. Bring the plant indoors before the threat of cool weather.
Reply:You can safely leave it in the car for 4-5 hours. No issues.
Poinsettia plants, if treated well, would live several years. You need to keep them inside the house if it's very hot and sunny outside. Similarly, you should not expose them to below-45 weather during winter.
They, however, will lose their color in April-July timeframe. Again, if treated well, they will get back their color in late-fall/early-winter... But that's a tricky thing... You need to keep them in total darkness at night at that time of the year.
Reply:they can last all season and through the new year. even when you lose the red from it the green will stll be nice.
Reply:We have had the same poinsettia for 7 years now. We put in a closet at least 12 hours a day in the warmer months and clip off the stems in groups of 7, I don't really know why, but it always comes back strong in the late fall.
Reply:As long as the plant is not in the sun it will be fine. Poinsettia's can last for years. My Mom had a hugh 20 year old poinsettia tree in her yard that started as a samll potted plant. It all depends on the care it gets early on.
Reply:1st - What will the temp. in your car be for that time? Cool temps are the best, and in the 30s is okay if the sun is out to keep the plant from freezing. However, if it will be hot in your car, take it inside.
2nd - A good poinsettia CAN last for a number of years if taken care of properly. Water regularly, after the surface is dry to the touch, but do not keep the roots soggy. Typically, after the holidays, the plant should be kept in a cooler, very dim to dark area for the next 10 months or so (still water regularly, and transplanted ONLY if absolutely needed). Towards the middle of November, it can be brought back out into the light. This will cause the leaves to once again turn red.
Good Luck
Reply:Best to bring it in with you, and give it a little water WITH a plate under it - don't forget the plate.
Reply:Poinsettia production starts with planning and not with panning. The first step in the planning process is to determine when you want plants salable. From that date, the timing of every other process is determined. It is real tempting to write this from flowering to propagation, however I will not do that to avoid confusion.
Planning (scheduling) Decisions
Flower date - ?
(response group)
Short days start - ?
Pinch date - ?
Pot date - ?
Propagation date - ?
Stock and Propagation
Poinsettia stock can be planted in March for a 3 pinch program, April for a 2 pinch program, or May for a 1 pinch program. Each of the programs have advantages and disadvantages. Less cuttings are produced per plant with the later planting, however the saving of early spring space for other production is often more valuable. Single pinched stock plants can also be grown in small containers but certainly require more greenhouse space. Stock plants should receive adequate light and space for pinching and harvesting of cuttings.
Stock plants must be grown in long days. Incandescent lighting (10 foot candles) should be provided from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. from planting until mid-May. Plants are pinched 2 weeks after potting and every 4-6 weeks to buildup cuttings and to maintain soft vegetative growth. 2-4 nodes are left on the pinched shoot. Poinsettia cultivar does affect the number of cuttings from a stock plant as well as scheduling of pinching and cutting removal. Seek guidelines for specific cultivars and follow those guidelines. Those guidelines are available from the breeders and suppliers.
Poinsettia cuttings 2.5-3 inches long are snapped or cut from stock plants with a sharp clean knife. The knife should be disinfected between stock plants. Cuttings should be taken in the morning when plants are turgid and should be placed in clean plastic bags or on clean newspaper. Cuttings should be treated with a rooting hormone to improve rooting uniformity and speed, stuck quickly, and not allowed to wilt. It is not necessary or desirable to remove leaves from the cuttings.
Poinsettia cuttings can be rooted in peat pellets (Jiffy 7's, Jiffy 9's), phenolic foam (Oasis), rockwool, or root medium filled cells. Cuttings can also be direct stuck in the finish container but this method requires a great deal of mist space. Whatever root medium or method is selected, great care should be taken to assure the medium is free of disease at the start and remains disease free through out propagation.
Cuttings must be rooted under intermittent mist. Mist is applied from sunrise to sunset at a frequency that keeps cutting leaves uniformly moist. Mist frequency may start with a mist cycle of 10 seconds every 4-6 minutes for the first 4 days. Mist frequency is reduced every 4-5 days as plants callous and root. After cuttings are stuck, it is very important to arrange leaves so cutting terminals (growing points) are not covered.
Temperature is very important during propagation. Minimum air temperature should be 70ûF. Bottom heat should maintain a root medium temperature of 75-80ûF. Cuttings should show visible roots in 21 days and be ready for potting in 28 days. Cuttings should be fertilized under mist beginning 14 days after sticking.
Scheduling
Poinsettia scheduling is required to provide top quality plants to the ever lengthening poinsettia market. The present market requires flowering plants from as early as the first week in November through the Christmas season. It is impossible to provide plants in prime condition without scheduling. Growing temperature should not be used to schedule poinsettias. Low temperatures, less than 62ûF. night/70ûF day, will delay flowering but will also reduce bract size. High temperature, greater than 65ûF night/80ûF day, will speed flowering but reduces plant quality and fades bract color. Cultivars can also be selected for early or late flowering, however your customer may complain if cultivars are changed during the marketing period. Therefore cultivar selection, although useful in specific cases, can not always be used to spread poinsettia flowering.
Response group (short days start until flower)
8 - 10 weeks
Natural season flower dates (Nov. 20 - Dec. 4)
2 weeks is a big difference
What is flowering in poinsettias? Anthesis or visible pollen on the first cyathia should be used as your guide to a salable poinsettia. Plants without pollen will never develop to their full potential in the post harvest environment and plants held in the greenhouse after anthesis, even at cool temperatures, will show reduced postharvest quality and longevity.
With all the new cultivars and their differences, along with the need for prime plants over a four week period, make poinsettia scheduling much more difficult. Different growth habits among cultivars also adds to the complexity. And on top of this complexity add the differences in growing conditions between the northern and southern production areas.
Cultivar
Growth Habit
Short
Medium
Tall
But there are some general guidelines that are very important to remember: Natural short days start around 25 September (probably a little earlier for Freedom). If you do nothing, flower initiation will occur on that date. Lighting, to prevent initiation and make sure the plants remain vegetative, should start on September 5.
Lighting should begin September 5.
Two to three weeks of growth is needed between panning and pinching to develop a good root system before pinching. The time between pinching and the start of short days is to me the most critical decision on overall crop quality. This can vary between two to five weeks, depending on the cultivar and growing conditions. I would strongly suggest you seek information from the breeders and universities in your specific area to help in these scheduling issues. The time between the pinch and the start of short days greatly affects final height and overall plant size. We have tools to control size but few tools exist to increase size after the start of short days. The maximum potential height and overall plant size is in some respects determined at the start of short days.
Freedom scheduling as an example between flowering time and region1
North South
early late2 early late2
pot Aug. 05 Aug. 15 Aug. 15 Aug. 21
pinch Aug. 19 Sept. 05 Sept. 1-7 Sept. 10
short days natural Sept. 29 natural Oct. 06
flower Nov. 15-25 Dec. 01 Nov. 15-20 Dec. 01
1long day lighting should start on Sept. 5
2from Nell, Barrett, Hartley Grower Talks/August 1993.
Media and Fertilization
The root medium used for poinsettias should be porous, well-drained, contain a moderate nutrient content, have a pH of 5.8-6.2, be free of insects and disease pests, and be easy to manage. You also want to select a medium that will be appropriate for the consumer. It should not be so well drained that in the home environment it is impossible to keep it moist.
Poinsettias have generally been considered a high fertility requiring crop. Although the light leaf cultivars fit into this category, the newer dark leaf cultivars require lower nutrient levels (150-200 ppm N). In fact, high levels of fertility (300 ppm N) can reduce crop quality in the darker leafed cultivars. My experience would suggest that you really need to fertilize the light and dark leaf cultivars differently and not compromise somewhere between the high and low levels when growing both groups in the same greenhouse.
Micro-nutrients are important in poinsettia production. Poinsettias have a high requirement for molybdenum (Mo) which is generally added at each watering at 0.1 ppm.
0.1 ppm Mo Application
Stock
1 oz. of ammonium or sodium molybdate/40.0 fl. oz. water
Application
0.15 fl. oz. of stock solution/100 gallons of water
Research has also shown the importance of the calcium to magnesium ratio for adequate calcium uptake in poinsettia production. High levels of magnesium interfere with calcium uptake, while too low levels of magnesium will cause magnesium deficiency, another common problem in poinsettia production. The best ratio of Ca:Mg for poinsettia production appears to be 2:1. Both calcium and magnesium should be monitored with root medium analysis because hey are both very important macro nutrients in poinsettia production.
Height Control
Growers generally apply a chemical growth retardant to poinsettias to reduce height and tone the plant. Commonly used chemicals are: Ancymidol (A-Rest), Daminozide (B-Nine SP), Paclobutrazol (Bonzi), Chlormequat (Cycocel), (Sumagic), and B-Nine SP/Cycocel tank mix. Different cultivars respond differently to the various chemicals therefore growers must adjust rates in their own production. General ranges are: Cycocel, 1,000 - 3,000 ppm; Bonzi, 10-30 ppm; Sumagic, 2-10 ppm; B-Nine Sp/Cycocel tank mix, 2500 ppm B-Nine SP/1500 ppm Cycocel; and A-Rest, .25 to .5 mg a.i. drench. Chemical growth retardants should not be applied after the start of short days as bract size can be significantly reduced in the northern United States.
Cut-off dates for B-Nine/Cycocel, Bonzi, Sumagic
North - start of short day
South - 2-4 weeks after start of short days
Research has shown that very low concentrations (1-2 ppm) of Bonzi or A-Rest can be applied as a drench as late as early November for height control without a significant bract size reduction. This approach is useful to correct a height problem occurring late in the production cycle and to avoid late stretch.
Late drenches of growth regulators
A-Rest
1 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./pot)
0.485 fl. oz./gallon
2 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./pot)
0.970 fl. oz./gallon
Bonzi
1 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./6" pot)
0.032 fl. oz./gallon
2 ppm drench (4 fl. oz./6" pot)
0.064 fl. oz./gallon
higher rates in the South, lower in the North
DIF is also used to manipulate poinsettia height in those areas with cool day temperatures. A positive DIF increases stem elongation and a negative DIF decreases stem elongation. Computer software is available to use DIF as a tool to control plant height. It is very important that average daily temperature not be changed when using DIF, therefore both day and night temperatures need to be adjusted to maintain the same average daily temperature. Average growing temperature can affect timing and bract size.
DIF - difference in day/night temperature
Positive DIF
warm day/cooler night taller plants
Negative DIF
cooler day/warmer night shorter plants
Bract Disorder
A number of bract disorders can cause serious problems in poinsettia production which appear suddenly at flowering. The grower has little chance to correct these problems once they appear. Research has shown bract necrosis (also called bract edge burn) can be caused by a number of factors including calcium deficiency in the bract tissue, fluoride toxicity, imbalances in Ca/Mg or Ca/K ratios, and pesticide toxicity. The following guidelines can be used to help reduce poinsettia bract necrosis:
• Supply adequate calcium in the fertilization program.
• Provide a calcium uptake environment
- reduce humidity in the greenhouse
- maintain good root growth
- use a well drained root medium
- reduce fertilizer salts
• Avoid fluoride
• Avoid pesticides on bracts
• Maintain 2:1 calcium: Magnesium ratio
• Avoid excess levels of potassium
• Select cultivars less sensitive to bract necrosis
Weekly sprays of 400 ppm calcium from calcium chloride beginning at first color have significantly reduced poinsettia bract necrosis. Spray plants to runoff making sure bract tissue is covered. I personally do not recommend a wetting agent from fear of phytotoxicity, although other researchers do recommend a wetting agent to improve coverage. Growers that have experienced any bract necrosis should spray plants with calcium as insurance.
400 ppm calcium spray solution
use 'reagent' grade chemical
Calcium Chloride Dihydrate
(CaCl2 • 2 H2O)
1.47 gm/liter water
or
55.6 gm/10 gallons water
or
1.96 oz./10 gallons water
Post Harvest
Poinsettia growers have a responsibility in post production longevity of the plants you grow. You simply can not afford to just be happy to have the plant out of the greenhouse door. Happy poinsettia consumers make for repeat customers.
The grower's responsibility in postharvest care is to provide the best poinsettia possible at the proper stage of development, free of insects and diseases, and low in soluble salts (fertilizer). Research has clearly shown that poinsettias have a much longer and better display life when sold at visible pollen. Young underdeveloped bracts will never develop good color in the postharvest environment. Pink bracts on red cultivars result when plants leave the production environment too early. Do not sell a poinsettia before its time!
Fertilizer salts should be reduced before selling, however t is not necessary or desirable to completely eliminate fertilizer application, just reduce the rate to 1/2 or 1/4 the rate used during early production. Poinsettias can also receive chilling injury when exposed to 50°F or less for as short as a two hour period of time. Chilling injury can cause epinasty as well as leaf loss under the most severe case. Transporting plants in unheated trucks in the north and uncooled trucks in the south can significantly reduce poinsettia quality. Certainly a general guideline is that poinsettias do much better when placed in a uniform non stressful environment. The best environment could be compared to the environment you would provide for a newborn baby but just a few degrees cooler (60 to 65°F).
The greenhouse grower should provide the following instructions to retailers. Upon receiving plants, unpack and unsleeve them immediately. Poinsettias left in the sleeve become droopy. This epinasty is caused by ethylene production from the sleeving process. The longer poinsettias are sleeved and the higher the temperature above 65°F, the greater the droopiness problem. The plants generally recover from epinasty in a couple of days when placed in a lighted area at 65-75°F if the sleeving period was longer than a couple of days.
Poinsettias should be placed in bright light at 60-65°F. They should however not receive direct sunlight under postharvest conditions. The plants should be out of hot or cold drafts. A heat duct or outside door should not expose the plants to sudden changes in temperature. At no time should poinsettias be stored in a garage area.
Poinsettias are fragile. Rough handling will bruise the bracts and cause stem and leaf breakage. Poinsettia plants can not be handled like hard goods. Also be sure to provide adequate spacing in the display area. Plants should not be spaced so close together that the bracts from one plant rub against the bracts of an adjacent plant.
As a poinsettia producer and marketer, you can do a great deal to maintain the potential postharvest beauty and longevity built into the modern poinsettia cultivars. At the same time you can reduce the postharvest life of the poinsettias you handle. It is extremely important that we all do our very best to give the consumer the best possible poinsettia. Plant abuse anywhere in the marketing chain will ultimately showup in the final consumer setting - whether it be a hotel lobby, mall display, or home living room. I like the concept that each poinsettia plant should be handled like it is the one you would take home for Christmas. Every poinsettia consumer deserves such treatment
Common name: Poinsettias
Latin name: Euphorbia pulcherrima
Native to: Man made hybrids
Growth habit: An upright woody bush usually not over 4 feet in height or 3 foot in width.
Temps: Normal indoor temps
Humidity: Not critical
Pests: Watch for white fly.
Lighting:
The Poinsettia was named after Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to the Republic of Mexico back in 1825.
Cultural information: As the holidays near... we all begin to decorate our homes for the season. The Christmas tree is up... the lights are on. It's time to shop for a Poinsettia.
Did you know that their is a major difference in Poinsettias found in the mass markets... versos your local garden center or floral shop? The difference is quality and longevity. How long did the mass market Poinsettia live... two or three weeks tops? Your local garden center or floral shop has Colorado grown Poinsettias that will last well beyond the holiday season.
For optimum shelf life... place your Poinsettia in bright filtered light. Rotate your plant daily if the back side of the plant is not receiving light. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Poinsettias don't like to sit in a saucer of water. Your Poinsettia will not need any fertilizer until well after the holidays. This holiday season... purchase a Colorado grown Poinsettia!
POINSETTIA'S LONGEVITY DEPENDS ON OWNER CARE.(GARDENING Q%26amp;A)(LIFE)
Source: The News %26amp; Record (Piedmont Triad, NC)
Publication Date: 11-DEC-04
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POINSETTIA'S LONGEVITY DEPENDS ON OWNER CARE.(GARDENING Q%26amp;A)(LIFE)
COPYRIGHT 2004 News %26amp; Record
Q. Each year we use poinsettia plants as part of our holiday decorations, but they seem to suffer and may not even last the entire season without dropping leaves, withering and sometimes dying entirely. What can we do to help them survive the season with us?
A. How well a plant will adapt to new surroundings can be determined before it leaves the store. Ask yourself a few questions as you examine the selections.
You are looking for the healthiest specimen, one that stands straight and tall with stiff limbs. No droopy or floppy plant will last long. Also, what color are the leaves? They must be deep, not light green. And the bloom (bracts, which we think of as the flowers) need to have strong...
POINSETTIA
(Euphorbia pulcherrima willd.)
Harvesting %26amp; Marketing
Production conditions to maximize postharvest longevity
Cool finishing temperatures increase bract and leaf retention.
Reduced fertilization during finishing (fertilization stopped one to two weeks before shipping) increases leaf retention.
Handling
Store plants for a minimum time and in the light. Plants stored in the dark have increased leaf drop and cyathia abscission.
Plants should be sleeved just before shipping to minimize damage in transit. Sleeves should be removed as soon as possible to limit epinasty (droopy leaves).
Store plants at 50 to 60oF for best longevity. Do not expose plants to temperatures less than 50oF.
Display conditions
High light intensity (75 to 225 footcandles) and long photoperiods reduce leaf loss. Less leaf loss occurs under incandescent than cool-white fluorescent light.
Cooler temperatures (about 60oF) increase longevity.
Source(s):
Michigan State University Extension
http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/iac/florflo...
Whether cut flowers are grown in a home garden or in a greenhouse by commercial experts, their care is a science.
To keep cut flowers beautiful longer; remember that they have been removed from their source of water, the root system, and will wilt quickly if not placed in water. Cut stems should be placed in water immediately, as air will rapidly move into the water-conducting tissues and plug the cells. This is why the cut flower that has been out of water more than a few minutes should have a small portion of the lower stem cut off so that water will move up freely when it is returned to water. Cuts can be made under-water to assure no air enters the stem.
A cut flower also has been removed from a major source of food—the leaves on the plant to which it was attached. Although the leaves on the flowering stem make food, once indoors they are in a reduced light situation and this limits available carbohydrates.
Use a Preservative
Commercial preservatives will increase the life of cut flowers and should always be used. (Adding aspirin, wine, or pennies to cut flowers WILL NOT help to keep them fresh longer. Do not attempt a home brew concoction.) A floral preservative is a complex mixture of sucrose (sugar); acidifier, an inhibitor of microorganisms; and a respiratory inhibitor. Sucrose serves as a source of energy to make up for the loss of the functioning leaves and insures continued development and longevity of the flower.
An acidifier makes the pH of the water more near the acid pH of the cell sap. Most water supplies are alkaline and can reduce the life of cut flowers. The acidifier also stabilizes the pigment and the color of the flower. This is why red roses turn "blue" when placed in water without a preservative or acidifier.
A microorganism growth inhibitor is perhaps the most important part of a floral preservative. Bacteria and fungi are everywhere and are ready to enter the cut surface of the stem and multiply. Prior to actual decay symptoms, cells of the water-transporting tissues can become blocked with microorganisms, inhibiting water uptake.
To aid the floral preservative in slowing down microorganisms, always clean the vase or container. Also remove all leaves below the water surface, as they soon deteriorate. Water and water uptake are major factors in keeping cut flowers fresh.
A process called "hardening" ensures maximum water uptake. It simply means placing the freshly cut stem in 110° F (43.5° C) water (plus preservative). Place in a cool location for an hour or two. Maximum water uptake is attained because water molecules move rapidly at 110° F (kinetic energy) and quickly move up the stems. Flowers at cool temperatures lose less water. In this one brief period while the water is cooling, freshly harvested stems, leaves, and flowers take up almost as much water as in the balance of their life.
Other Tips for Long-Lasting Cut Flowers
Check the water level of the container or vase daily and add water plus preservative when needed.
Keep flowers away from hot or cold air drafts and hot spots (radiators, direct heat, or television sets).
While both drafts and hot spots increase water loss, hot spots reduce a flower's life by speeding transpiration (water loss) and respiration (use of stored food such as sugars) and increasing development (rate of petal unfolding).
When away from home, move the flowers into the refrigerator or the coldest (above 35° F/1.5° C) spot in the house. Again, this will slow down water loss, respiration, and development.
Never store fruit and flowers together. Apples produce ethylene gas, a hormone that causes senescence, or aging, in flowers.
In summary, to keep cut flowers longer:
ü Recut the stems and remove excess foliage.
ü Harden the flowers by setting them in warm water in a cool place.
ü Use a floral preservative.
ü Keep them cool and avoid drafts, hot spots, and television sets.
ü Use a clean vase or container and check the water level daily.
Flowering Plants
Inadequate light, high temperatures, and improper watering are the common causes of failure in flowering plants. These plants are grown in a greenhouse where the night temperature is usually cool, the air is moist, and light is ample. When these plants are brought into a dry home where the light is poor and the temperature is maintained for human comfort without consideration for the plants, the results are often disappointing.
Poinsettias
Poinsettias require bright light and should be kept away from drafts. A temperature between 65° and 70° F is ideal. Avoid temperatures below 60° and above 75° F. Keep the plants well watered but do not over-water. Newer, long-lasting varieties can be kept attractive all winter.
Reflowering a Poinsettia
The poinsettia blooms during short days. Starting October 1, exclude poinsettia from artificial light for 16 hours; either cover with a light-proof box each evening or place in an unlighted room or closet. Expose to full light during the day (eight hour days). Use fertilizer when new growth is visible. After 10 weeks of short days, the plants should reflower.
Easter Lilies
Keep the plants in a sunny place where the temperature does not fall below 60° F. Water when the soil feels dry.
After the plants have turned brown, cut off the stem at the soil surface. When the garden soil warms up in late May, move the plants outdoors. Choose a warm sunny place with well-drained soil. Plant the bulbs four to six inches deep (soil surface to the top of the bulb) in most soils and somewhat deeper in sandy soil. Easter lilies may bloom the first fall after being set outdoors. They are easy to transplant.
Fertilize several times during the summer and use a mulch to keep the soil moist. In the fall when the soil is lightly frozen, apply evergreen boughs or marsh hay around the plants. Keep this mulch on until new growth develops the next spring.
Azaleas
Azaleas require direct sunlight to remain healthy. A night temperature of 50° to 60° F will prolong blooming. Keep the soil moist. Azaleas can be planted in a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. Feed them with an acid fertilizer and examine them frequently, keeping plants watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas will not survive Zone 4 winters.
Azaleas need short days and cool temperatures to form flower buds. If you can provide short days, after buds have formed, a six- to eight-week cool treatment is needed before plants will bloom. A well-lighted room with a temperature of 35° to 50° F is ideal, but hard to find in most homes. Unless you have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not attempt to carry the plants over to the next year.
Cyclamens
Cyclamens require full sunlight and a night temperature of between 50° and 60° F. Flower buds will fail to develop if the night temperature is too high or if the light is poor. They require regular watering.
Plants can be carried over, but as with the poinsettias, homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial grower.
Gardenias
Gardenias grown indoors need special care and specific conditions. They demand an acid soil and should receive the same nutritional care as azaleas. The night temperature should be near 60° F and the humidity around the plant should be kept high. High temperature and low light intensity will result in flower-bud drop.
Is poinsettia plant affected by the amount of sunlight they receive?
poinsettia plants have been observed to bloom during the days of December when the nights are longer than the day. are poinsettia plants affected by the amount of sunlight they receive? how??
Is poinsettia plant affected by the amount of sunlight they receive?
Poinsettia blooms in short days of winter, but you can determine it to bloom any time of year through light manipulation. You cover the plant with a black bag or a bucket to stop completely the light - for 14 hours/day. The rest of 10 hours/day you expose the plant to moderate light.
After the bloom period, the plant needs 2 months of resting, when all the leafes are changing the colour in the initial green or fall. Poinsettia needs a light spot, but without direct sunlight, temperatures 18-20 grade Celsius.
Reply:Poinsettias respond to the far red range of the light spectrum. The length of exposure to these rays affects hormones within the plant to cause it to go into a blooming cycle. Cool temperatures around 15 to 20 degrees C. seem to accelerate the process. I once forced a crop of poinsettias into flower in March for Epcot in Disneyworld using light control.
Is poinsettia plant affected by the amount of sunlight they receive?
Poinsettia blooms in short days of winter, but you can determine it to bloom any time of year through light manipulation. You cover the plant with a black bag or a bucket to stop completely the light - for 14 hours/day. The rest of 10 hours/day you expose the plant to moderate light.
After the bloom period, the plant needs 2 months of resting, when all the leafes are changing the colour in the initial green or fall. Poinsettia needs a light spot, but without direct sunlight, temperatures 18-20 grade Celsius.
Reply:Poinsettias respond to the far red range of the light spectrum. The length of exposure to these rays affects hormones within the plant to cause it to go into a blooming cycle. Cool temperatures around 15 to 20 degrees C. seem to accelerate the process. I once forced a crop of poinsettias into flower in March for Epcot in Disneyworld using light control.
My mother's poinsettia doesnt have colored leaves?
Like, the color on her poinsettia's leaves arent red like they're supposed to be, only 2 are red. As for mine, I have alot of marble leaves. about 20 or so marble ones. Like, what can she do to make her have red leaves rather than red?
My mother's poinsettia doesnt have colored leaves?
In the fall you must put it in darkness in a cool closet - lengthening each week until Christmas in order to turn the leaves red again. Not sure of exact time periods, think it takes about 3 months.
Reply:Yes, last answer was right...poinsettias need very specific photoperiods in order to flower. It is rather complicated and not worth your time...buy a new one next Christmas!
Reply:I have a poinsetta that is 4yrs.old the red left a long time ago.I tried setting it in a dark place for hours as suggested,red kool aid,nothing worked .If you find away let me know
My mother's poinsettia doesnt have colored leaves?
In the fall you must put it in darkness in a cool closet - lengthening each week until Christmas in order to turn the leaves red again. Not sure of exact time periods, think it takes about 3 months.
Reply:Yes, last answer was right...poinsettias need very specific photoperiods in order to flower. It is rather complicated and not worth your time...buy a new one next Christmas!
Reply:I have a poinsetta that is 4yrs.old the red left a long time ago.I tried setting it in a dark place for hours as suggested,red kool aid,nothing worked .If you find away let me know
My dogs ate Poinsettia!?
I found my dogs eating poinsettia and I know it is poisoness, but what should I do??? I have two pomeranians, but they didn't vomet yet.
My dogs ate Poinsettia!?
Call the vet. If they're not in, see if you can get the Humane Society or SPCA on the phone.
Reply:Call your vet or poison control center for animals right away. Poinsettia are poisonous and they can even make humans sick!
Reply:Hello,
Phone your vet for some advise and an appointment, that is the best thing to do,I hope they will be alright
good luck
Reply:Call the vet and see if you need to take them there ASAP.
Reply:You need to call the vet right away. Poms can't tolerate much.
Reply:Go to the vet or doctors ASAP!
Reply:Call the vet...
that is very serious!!! poison!!!
flowers baby
My dogs ate Poinsettia!?
Call the vet. If they're not in, see if you can get the Humane Society or SPCA on the phone.
Reply:Call your vet or poison control center for animals right away. Poinsettia are poisonous and they can even make humans sick!
Reply:Hello,
Phone your vet for some advise and an appointment, that is the best thing to do,I hope they will be alright
good luck
Reply:Call the vet and see if you need to take them there ASAP.
Reply:You need to call the vet right away. Poms can't tolerate much.
Reply:Go to the vet or doctors ASAP!
Reply:Call the vet...
that is very serious!!! poison!!!
flowers baby
"Poinsettia" care: have re-potted, looks like it's dying: what should I do? any comments welcome?
Received an enormous, magnificent poinsettia for Christmas. Obviously needed repotting.
A purported plant authority here in Reno/Sparks, Nevada - for the most part, very dry climate, lots of sun in summer - adivised I repot, and set outside.
I complied, but it began to look pretty "droopy" to me, so brought it back inside: now looks like it's in its "death throes": may have very well overwatered it.
A friend of mine who has had a lot of experience with plants, advised me to put it in the closet, until it began to bloom.
I really don't know what to do. Any chance of reviving this once glorious plant?
Any serious comments, suggestions, would be most welcome.
Thanks,
Alberich
"Poinsettia" care: have re-potted, looks like it's dying: what should I do? any comments welcome?
cut it back and leave it in the closet in the dark for a few weeks. then bring it out it will start growing again.
Reply:you may have over watered. you should only water when the soil is dry to the touch. it needs lots of light and temp. should be around 60-70 during the day and down to 55 at night. the book says to feed once a month with a foliage houseplant food starting in feb. in march cut back stems to 4 -6" and in april to repot. then in sept. give it 12 hours of darkness a night to help it flower.
i hope something in here helps you figure out what happened to your plant. good luck
Reply:I believe poinsetta's don't last much longer than the christmas season. I'm surprised it's still alive! If You really like it that much, keep it inside though out of bright light until it shows growth again. It could just be shocked from the transplant. Maybe give a low dose of fertilizer, like osmolite?
Reply:As far as I know..you need to treat it like a houseplant. It's too hot outside for a poinsettia.
A purported plant authority here in Reno/Sparks, Nevada - for the most part, very dry climate, lots of sun in summer - adivised I repot, and set outside.
I complied, but it began to look pretty "droopy" to me, so brought it back inside: now looks like it's in its "death throes": may have very well overwatered it.
A friend of mine who has had a lot of experience with plants, advised me to put it in the closet, until it began to bloom.
I really don't know what to do. Any chance of reviving this once glorious plant?
Any serious comments, suggestions, would be most welcome.
Thanks,
Alberich
"Poinsettia" care: have re-potted, looks like it's dying: what should I do? any comments welcome?
cut it back and leave it in the closet in the dark for a few weeks. then bring it out it will start growing again.
Reply:you may have over watered. you should only water when the soil is dry to the touch. it needs lots of light and temp. should be around 60-70 during the day and down to 55 at night. the book says to feed once a month with a foliage houseplant food starting in feb. in march cut back stems to 4 -6" and in april to repot. then in sept. give it 12 hours of darkness a night to help it flower.
i hope something in here helps you figure out what happened to your plant. good luck
Reply:I believe poinsetta's don't last much longer than the christmas season. I'm surprised it's still alive! If You really like it that much, keep it inside though out of bright light until it shows growth again. It could just be shocked from the transplant. Maybe give a low dose of fertilizer, like osmolite?
Reply:As far as I know..you need to treat it like a houseplant. It's too hot outside for a poinsettia.
Poinsettia?
OK I have 2 poinsettias and they r both in full bloom.I put them outside during the summer,they grew new leaves and the leaves r green and they r healthy.I brought them inside about a week or 2 ago and I was wondering how u get the leaves red for X-mas? I know you have to put them in the dark but how and when?Is it too late? Plz help me?!?
Poinsettia?
usually poinsettias need 8 full hours of darkness to turn red for the holidays this process starts in September i also have 2 beautiful gigantic poinsettias i am putting a large garbage bag over them at night to enjoy their color most people say a closet but i don't want to lug them back and forth so a bag works just fine good luck
Poinsettia?
usually poinsettias need 8 full hours of darkness to turn red for the holidays this process starts in September i also have 2 beautiful gigantic poinsettias i am putting a large garbage bag over them at night to enjoy their color most people say a closet but i don't want to lug them back and forth so a bag works just fine good luck
Poinsettia?
how do i take cuttings from a poinsettia can we grow these for are summer?
Poinsettia?
cuttings from poinsettia are usually taken in May...use oasis cubes. It is not hard to get the cuttings to grow but it is much harder to get them to bloom because their dark requirements are so 'picky'...try this website:
http://hometown.aol.com/potspice/myhomep...
there are many websites available, but this is good for us homegrowers...
Reply:Hi,
These sites looks pretty good, along with above site shown.
http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/...
http://www.pinoyfarmer.com/bp.cfm?id=940
Hope this helps,
Dave
Reply:Hello James,
You can take stem cuttings in early summer. Choose a healthy sturdy non-flowering shoot - 1. The cutting should be 3-6ins in length 2. Carefully remove all the leaves from the lower half of the cutting 3. Make a straight cut at the bottom, just below a leaf joint 4. Dip the bottom in a rooting hormone powder and tap off the excess 5. Insert the cutting into compost and firm gently. Take a few cuttings to increase your chances. Good luck, x
Poinsettia?
cuttings from poinsettia are usually taken in May...use oasis cubes. It is not hard to get the cuttings to grow but it is much harder to get them to bloom because their dark requirements are so 'picky'...try this website:
http://hometown.aol.com/potspice/myhomep...
there are many websites available, but this is good for us homegrowers...
Reply:Hi,
These sites looks pretty good, along with above site shown.
http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/...
http://www.pinoyfarmer.com/bp.cfm?id=940
Hope this helps,
Dave
Reply:Hello James,
You can take stem cuttings in early summer. Choose a healthy sturdy non-flowering shoot - 1. The cutting should be 3-6ins in length 2. Carefully remove all the leaves from the lower half of the cutting 3. Make a straight cut at the bottom, just below a leaf joint 4. Dip the bottom in a rooting hormone powder and tap off the excess 5. Insert the cutting into compost and firm gently. Take a few cuttings to increase your chances. Good luck, x
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